This article was originally published in the Winter 2014 issue of Nantucket Today
Bright orange pumpkins decorate our farm stands from September through Thanksgiving, and beginning in October families start selecting the biggest, roundest, most perfectly-formed pumpkins for doorstep display, eventually to be carved into a jack-o’-lantern for Halloween. Pumpkins are, after all, the iconic symbol of fall.
But how many people actually associate pumpkins with the dinner table?
Of course, our Thanksgiving sideboards are laden with pumpkin pies for dessert, but there is a world of culinary possibilities with the pumpkin, if only we took the time to explore.
Pumpkins are indeed a fruit, but lend themselves to savory recipes. Originating in Central America, strips of pumpkin were roasted by Native Americans over an open fire, much as they roasted squashes, also indigenous to the Americas.
Pumpkins lend themselves to use in soups and stews. Think of the savory butternut-squash soup enjoyed this time of year, sometimes combined with tart apples and seasoned with curry, or puréed and combined with a touch of cream and topped with a swirl of cider crème fraîche, and you have a first course for a late-fall feast.
Most people use canned pumpkin purée when making breads and pies, and that’s just fine. But when you are flipping through recipes that incorporate pumpkin into stews and tarts, you’ll want to buy a whole pumpkin. Take care, however, in choosing. The big pumpkins we choose for carving jack-o'-lanterns are not suitable for cooking. They tend to be watery and stringy and lacking flavor. Look instead for the smaller and rounder pumpkin varieties with names like Sugar Pie, Cheese and Baby Bear.
A benefit of cooking using a whole pumpkin is the harvest of seeds from the center of the fruit. When you scrape out the center in preparation for cooking, separate the seeds from the fiber, rinse, dry and set aside. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Toss the pumpkin seeds with a tablespoon or two of olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, or cinnamon sugar, and roast for 5-7 minutes. Cool and enjoy. Pumpkin seeds, like all seeds and nuts, are loaded with nutritional benefits.
Once the center of the pumpkin has been cleaned out, the flesh can be cut up into chunks for soups and stews or other uses. I love the recipe we have featured here for a pumpkin and lamb stew with chickpeas and sweet and savory spices. Lamb is such an under-used meat for stewing, but it should be reconsidered as it has a richness that beef stews do not. This recipe features the stew ladled over couscous, which we have made more interesting with chopped, dried figs, giving it a Middle Eastern flair.
I also like the simple chicken stew, with corn and peppers, served up in a preroasted pumpkin shell. The benefit here is that once the stew is ladled out, you can dig into the side of the shell and serve up some roasted pumpkin alongside the stew. A crusty baguette from Nantucket’s Petticoat Row Bakery or Wicked Island Bakery would be a nice accompaniment and round out the meal here.
One of the more innovative recipes featured here is pumpkin combined with Swiss chard, a leafy green vegetable I just love, with ricotta and pulled together with a light custard base in an open-face tart. This is a great light lunch or first course. It would also look nice on the Thanksgiving buffet table and is a nice option for lacto-ovo vegetarians who are bypassing the turkey.
If you are looking for a pumpkin-inspired sweet, one of my favorites is the muffin recipe I developed for my kids when they were younger. Featuring chunks of Ghirardelli bittersweet chocolate, walnuts and candied ginger in a pumpkin base, this is as good a snacking muffin as it gets. I would make a dozen for breakfast and by the end of the day the pan was empty.
We also feature a Down East pumpkin-pie recipe here, which varies a bit from the standard recipe on the back of the One Pie can which uses evaporated milk. This rendition features fresh pumpkin (canned can be substituted), whole milk and spice. I like to bake my Thanksgiving pies the night before in order to let the pumpkin be fully set and, more importantly, to make my morning of cooking more leisurely and to keep the oven free for the turkey.
Pumpkin spice cake, with or without nuts, is a fancy dessert cake if frosted, or a simple snacking cake if left plain. Make this and your kids – or you – will likely devour it over the course of the day. Its source is from one of my standby cookbooks, a gem for its historical perspective and wisdom it imparts: “James Beard’s American Cookery.” This is one of the first cookbooks I ever bought, back in 1972, from a store on Nantucket called The Pantry Shelf, which then became Tonkin’s on the corner of Federal and Main. I refer to Beard often. Its pages are spattered with remnants of recipes I’ve made, its cover is faded and torn, the spine broken – all the marks of a well-used volume.
PUMPKIN OVEN FRIES with SALSA
Whip up a batch of these next time you settle in for an afternoon of Sunday football, or serve instead of fries with a turkey burger for dinner. It is adapted from a recipe by Joanna Farrow in “Pumpkin,” published by Octopus Publishing.
3-pound wedge from a large pumpkin, seeded
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon coriander
1 teaspoon sea saltPreheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Set aside. Cut pumpkin into thin wedges, then peel. Cut each wedge into 1/2-inch-thick fries. Mix seasonings in a bowl. Set aside. Toss fries in olive oil in a bowl and place on baking sheet. Sprinkle fries with seasoned salt. Roast for about 30 minutes or until golden and just tender
1/2 pound cherry or grape tomatoes, chopped
2 scallions, finely chopped
4 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped
1/3 cup chopped mango or pineapple
4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
PUMPKIN, SWISS CHARD AND RICOTTA TART
This would be a great first course to a Thanksgiving dinner, or a light entrée paired with a salad of greens tossed in a hazelnut vinaigrette, or a creamy soup. It is adapted from a recipe by Joanna Farrow in “Pumpkin,” published by Octopus Publishing.
For the Crust:
1-3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon cold water
For the Filling:
14-ounce wedge from a large pumpkin, peeled and seeded
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 sweet onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 cups Swiss chard leaves
1/3 cup whole-milk ricotta
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1/3 cup light cream
Dash of nutmeg
Kosher salt and freshly-ground pepper to taste
To Make the Crust:Whisk salt in a medium bowl with flour. Cut in the butter with your fingertips, a pastry cutter or two knives until dough is crumbly like small peas. Add ice-cold water and mix with fork until dough mixture comes together. Gather into a ball, flatten into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and let rest in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. Roll out pastry onto a lightly-floured board in a large enough circle that it will fit into a 9-inch round tart pan, trimming off excess at the top. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place crust in freezer while oven is coming to temperature. Line pastry shell with parchment paper and fill with pie weights. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove pie weights and parchment and bake for another 5 minutes. Set aside while preparing filling and reduce oven to 350 degrees.
To Make the Filling:Cut the skinned pumpkin into 3/4-inch chunks. Wash and rinse the chard leaves, cutting off and discarding tough stems. Melt butter in a frying pan and sauté onion, garlic and pumpkin for 5 minutes until vegetables start to brown and soften. Add the chard leaves to the pan and stir until they start to wilt. With a spatula, scrape all the vegetables into the pre-baked pie crust. Beat eggs with cream, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Set aside. Place spoonfuls of ricotta evenly across the top of the filling. Pour beaten egg mixture evenly over the tart. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for about 25 minutes or until filling is set and springy to the touch.
8. Cool and serve warm or at room temperature.
MOROCCAN PUMPKIN & LAMB with COUSCOUS & FIGS
The fragrant smell of this stew cooking will put a smile on your face and make you think of the holidays to come. It is adapted from a recipe by Joanna Farrow in “Pumpkin,” published by Octopus Publishing.
1-1/2-pound pumpkin, seeded
1 pound lean leg of lamb
1/3 cup good quality extra-virgin olive oil
1 large sweet onion, cut in 1/4-inch dice
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1-inch piece ginger root, peeled and grated on a microplane
1 cinnamon stick
3 garlic cloves, crushed
4 medium sweet carrots, cut in 1-inch chunks
2-1/2 cups vegetable stock or water
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
2-1/3 cup fresh or frozen large green peas
1-1/3 cups couscous
1/2 cup chopped, dried figs
1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
Salt and freshly-ground pepperCut pumpkin into wedges and peel the skin. Chop flesh into 2-inch chunks. Combine ground spices in a small bowl and set aside. Trim fat away from lamb and cut into 1½- to 2-inch chunks. Season with salt and pepper and set aside. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven. Add onion and sauté for 2-3 minutes until onion is soft. Add lamb chunks and sauté for another 5 minutes until it starts to brown. Sprinkle spices over lamb and onion mixture and stir. Add in garlic and ginger and cinnamon stick. Add stock or water and slowly bring to a boil. Then turn the heat down and simmer, covered, for about 45 minutes, checking and stirring frequently to prevent sticking. Add carrots and chickpeas and cook for another 15 minutes, adding more stock if liquid level starts to get too low. Add the peas in the last 5 minutes of cooking. As pumpkin cooks, put the couscous in heatproof casserole with 1/2 cup chopped dried figs. Cover with boiling water, as directions on box state. Cover with a lid or plate and leave for approximately 5 minutes as grain absorbs the water. With a fork, fluff up couscous-fig mixture and lightly season with salt and pepper. Stir cilantro into the stew. Remove cinnamon stick.
Serve stew spooned over the couscous in shallow bowls. Garnish with more fresh cilantro if desired.
CHICKEN STEW in a PUMPKIN SHELL
This flavorful stew has the taste of the Caribbean with coconut milk, cardamom and sweet red peppers flavoring the broth that holds tender chunks of chicken.
1 pumpkin, whole, 10-12 inches across
6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large Vidalia onion, cut in 1/4-inch dice
1 red bell pepper, seeded and sliced into 1/4-inch-wide strips
1 green bell pepper, seeded and sliced into 1/4-inch-wide strips
1/2 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon saffron strands, crumbled
1-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled
1 can light coconut milk
2/3 cup low-fat chicken stock
1 cinnamon stick, broken
2 tablespoons cardamom podsPreheat oven to 375 degrees. Pierce pumpkin all around the top with a skewer. Bake for about an hour until flesh feels very tender when top of the pumpkin is pierced with a knife. While pumpkin is baking, season flour with salt and pepper, place in a plastic bag and set aside. Cut the chicken into 1-inch pieces and toss in the seasoned flour to coat. Melt butter in a heavy skillet, add olive oil and sauté chicken until golden. Remove chicken pieces with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Add onions, garlic and peppers to the pan and sauté for 5 minutes. Return chicken to the pan with corn kernels, saffron, ginger, cinnamon stick, coconut milk and chicken stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, cover and cook gently for an hour. Taste for seasonings and adjust as needed with salt and pepper. Cut out the lid from the cooked pumpkin and remove it carefully to avoid being burned by the steam that will escape from inside. Carefully scoop out the seeds from the inside. Place hollowed-out pumpkin on a large platter. Remove ginger, cinnamon sticks and cardamom pods from stew. Then ladle chicken stew into the pumpkin and serve. When stew is all ladled out, scoop out some of the pumpkin and serve on the side with bread.
PUMPKIN CHOCOLATE CHUNK MUFFINS
These muffins are irresistible, and great for breakfast or snacking throughout the day. Be sure to use a good-quality chocolate such as the Ghirardelli bittersweet chocolate chunks for optimum flavor.
1-2/3 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon pumpkin-pie spice
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
2 large eggs
1 cup canned plain pumpkin
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup Ghirardelli bittersweet chocolate chunks
3/4 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 cup candied ginger, chopped (optional)
Sparkling sugar (optional), available from King Arthur’s Baking Store in Norwich, Vt.Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 12-cup muffin tin with paper liners. Toss walnuts, chocolate chunks and ginger with 1 teaspoon flour. Set aside. In a large bowl whisk together all the dry ingredients. Set aside. In a medium bowl whisk the eggs. Stir in the pumpkin and then the melted, cooled butter. Add wet ingredients to the dry. Fold until fully incorporated, but do not over-mix. Stir in the vanilla. Scoop batter into muffin cups. Sprinkle with coarse sparkling sugar if desired. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until springy.
PUMPKIN SPICE CAKE with CHOCOLATE FROSTING
Pumpkin and chocolate pair amazingly well. This recipe, adapted from “James Beard’s American Cookery,” is a staple in our house. First published by Little, Brown in 1972, it is an oft-referred to source for me and a great cookbook to give anyone who loves to explore this country’s culinary roots and great recipes.
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
2 large eggs, beaten
¾ cup sieved cooked pumpkin, or squash, whipped til smooth
2 cups sifted cake flour
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon nutmeg
½ teaspoon allspice
½ teaspoon ginger
½ cup buttermilk
½ cup chopped toasted nuts – walnuts, pecans or filberts (optional)Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare your cake pan(s) by greasing and flouring, or lining bottom of greased pan with parchment paper cut to fit and greased. Use either two round 8- or 9-inch pans or one 11-by-14-by-2–inch pan. In a large mixing bowl, sift all dry ingredients except sugar and set aside. In a large mixing bowl, cream butter well until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add sugar, creaming another 5 minutes. Beat in eggs and then pumpkin. Add the dry ingredients alternately with the milk, beginning with dry and ending with milk, until everything is well incorporated. If using nuts, toss with a teaspoon of flour, then fold into the batter. Pour batter into the prepared pans, scraping down the sides of the bowl well.
10. Bake in the center of the oven, 35 minutes for a sheet cake or 25 minutes for layers, testing for doneness by touching the top of the cake lightly in the center to see if it springs back.
11. Cool 5 minutes on a wire rack and then turn from pans to finish cooling.
12. Frost with chocolate, caramel or vanilla frosting when done. Do not use canned frosting.
CHOCOLATE CREAM CHEESE FROSTING
8 ounces Ghirardelli bittersweet chocolate chips
1/4 stick unsalted butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
8 ounces cream cheese at room temperature
2-1/4 cups powdered sugar, siftedMelt butter and chocolate in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Set aside to cool to lukewarm. In a large bowl, beat the cream cheese with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add cooled chocolate-butter mixture slowly until fully incorporated. Add vanilla extract, then beat in powdered sugar until smooth.
What is Thanksgiving without pumpkin pie? But pumpkin pie is good any time during the fall and winter. Break out of your habit and serve it as dessert for Sunday dinner.
1-crust pie crust recipe (You can use crust recipe for pumpkin, Swiss chard and ricotta tart on this page)
1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup granulated sugar
1-1/2 cups whole milk
1-1/2 cups fresh cooked or canned pumpkin
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1. Preheat oven to 475 degrees.
2. Beat eggs. Add sugar and beat well. Add pumpkin, whole milk, salt and spices and combine thoroughly.
3. Pour pumpkin filling into an unbaked 9-inch pie shell. Reduce heat to 325 degrees and bake for another 45 minutes.
4. Remove from the oven when custard is set, and cool completely on a wire rack. Note: This pie is often made the night before for Thanksgiving.
5. Serve with ice cream or whipped cream.
Marianne Stanton is editor and publisher of The Inquirer and Mirror, Nantucket’s weekly newspaper, and Nantucket Today. She writes frequently about food and travel.