In yesterday’s article we looked at Mary Corbet’s post about cotton threads. Today we’ll delve deeper into using cotton threads for needlepoint specifically.
What Is Cotton?
Cotton is the carded and spun fibers from the burst seed pods of the cotton plant. It is the most common fiber in the world.
There are a couple of terms you need to remember when looking at cotton:
- Staple: refers to the length of the individual fibers. Longer is better, more expensive, and smoother.
- Mercerized: refers to a process that changes the structure of the cotton, making it softer and better able to take dye. Higher quality cotton threads are almost always Mercerized, even if the label does not say it.
Some varieties of cotton and locations where they are grown have specific names. You’ve probably seen some of these on clothing (Egyptian, Sea Island) or on thread (Pima). Watercolours is the only thread I know of that has this kind of designation on its label.
All embroidery floss has six two-ply strands that can easily be separated. It’s an inexpensive thread and is made in many colors by many manufacturers. All cotton floss is the same size, although this can vary slightly with the color and/or manufacturer.
Even though all cotton floss looks the same, it is not the same. Remember the definition of staple above? It really comes into play with floss. Inexpensive brands use shorter staple cotton. The thread will feel rougher and will not go as easily through the needle’s eye or through the canvas. If you stick with floss from major manufacturers and from well-known hand-dye companies you will be using floss made with long-staple cotton.
(You might be wondering why this is true of the hand-dyes. These companies buy thread in bulk from the major manufacturers and so use the same base thread.)
You’ll find floss colors in three basic types: Solid threads are a single color throughout. If solid colors are hand-dyed there may be some slight variation. Variegated threads usually refer to threads made by major manufacturers that have a wide variation in shade in a single color. This term seems to be falling out of use. Instead we are seeing Overdyed or multi-colored when referring to threads that have more than one shade or color. The companies that make these threads can range from the biggest, such as DMC, to someone dyeing thread in their kitchen.
While the terms “overdye,” “multi-color.” and “semi-solid” specifically refer to specific color schemes and dyeing methods, the important thing to remember is that they all are threads with changes, great or small, in color or shade.
While the number of strands you use depends on your tension and on the stitch, typically 18-mesh canvas uses four strands.
Pearl Cotton & Friends
Pearl Cotton is a single strand, two-ply, cotton thread that cannot be divided. The obvious twist of this thread means that it creates a texture that looks like beads when you use Tent Stitch. Because it cannot be separated, it comes in different sizes. With Pearl Cotton the smaller the number, the bigger the size. A popular thread, it is made by many manufacturers, just like embroidery floss.
I love Pearl Cotton. It has more shine than embroidery floss. It is also a very strong thread. Because it is single stranded, stitches will not snag when stitched in this thread. Because it is a round thread stitches made with Pearl Cotton will not spread out, so it may not cover as well with straight stitches or when changing colors.
While Pearl Cotton wears well, the shiny finish wears off as you stitch with it. You can avoid or minimize the problem appearing in your stitching with the following tips:
- Park your needle in one place on the thread.
- Stop stitching before you get to where the thread is dull.
- Do not restitch with this thread.
The term “perle” is French and they call this thread “perle coton.” “Perle cotton” is neither French nor English, but incorrect.
The sizes of Pearl Cotton are: 3, 5, 8, 12, and 16. #3 Pearl is being phased out by most companies. It can be used of 13-mesh canvas but has a rough look. #5 is the most popular size and is available in the most colors. It works on mesh sizes from 13 to 18. #8 is thinner but is growing in popularity. It can be used on 18 and 24 canvas. #12 is the thinnest size you are likely to encounter. It works well for overstitching, as a couching thread, and for wrapping. #16 is very thin and hard to find.
Pearl Cotton comes in the same kind of colors as floss and is made by many of the same companies. It is the thread I recommend for beginners.
Most stitchers I know think Caron’s Watercolours as Pearl Cotton. Although a single strand is the same size as #5 Pearl, it is a three-strand two-ply Pima cotton and does not have the shine or bead-like qualities of Pearl Cotton.
Rainbow Gallery makes three pearl-like multi-color threads: Overture, Bravo, and Encore. These threads all have four strands twisted together, but, like Watercolours, the strands can easily be divided. The colors are common to all three threads. They differ in size because of the size of pearl used in the base thread. Bravo’s strands are equal to #12. Encore is no longer made but the strands were equal to #8. Overture’s strands are equal to #5.
These threads are friends of Pearl.
Matte Cotton is a thick, round thread that feels to me like very soft, old string. DMC is the company that makes it. It has been only available in Europe for several years, but started to be imported to the US again in 2017.
Needle Necessities made overdyed versions of this thread, called Madras. Painter’s Thread also has matte cotton in their line. You can also often find older skeins on eBay.
Just like its name implies, Matte Cotton has no shine. That makes it rare among cotton threads. It also means it’s great for textural contrast, especially if you want the greater detail of cotton instead of wool.
As it comes from the skein, Matte Cotton is beautiful on 13 mesh. You can divide it to thin the thread. Do this carefully because the thread is soft and can break. I use 4 or 6 strands on 18.
Flower Thread is a thin, matte cotton thread. The solid colors of this thread are uncommon outside of cross stitch circles, but you probably know Caron’s overdyed version, Wildflowers. Because it’s thin, it isn’t much used in needlepoint, but consider it for overstitching.
If you will be doing regular stitching with flower thread, it is equal to two strands of floss.
This thread from Sulky comes on spools that look like sewing thread. It is available in both solid and multi-colors (read my review). You can easily use multiple strands for needlepoint.
Along with single color spools, it is also available in assortments with several spools in them.
While I know many stitchers who love Floche (made by DMC), I’m not a fan. I find the large hanks a bit unwieldy for easy use. It is a smooth shiny thread the same size as two strands of floss. Think of it as having the shine of pearl cotton without the texture.
This doesn’t cover all the range of cotton threads out there, but it will give you a great start on exploring these threads.
Want to learn more about threads? Get my book: Touch Me, Feel Me.