Why Hire a Certified Arborist?
An arborist by definition is someone who is trained in the art and science of planting, caring for, and maintaining individual trees. Certification provides a measurable assessment of an individual’s knowledge and competence required to provide proper tree care. Proper tree care is an investment that can lead to substantial returns. Well cared for trees are attractive and can add considerable value to your property. Poorly maintained trees can be a significant liability. Pruning or removing trees, especially large trees, can be dangerous work and should be done only by those trained and equipped to work safely in trees. Advanced Tree Services Arborists all hold New Zealand Certification, U.K. Certification and/or Certification with the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA). The ISA is a scientific and educational organisation devoted to the dissemination of information in the care and preservation of shade and ornamental trees. ISA Certified Arborists are individuals who have achieved a level of knowledge in the art and science of tree care through experience and by passing a comprehensive examination developed by some of the world’s leading experts on tree care. ISA Certified Arborists must also continue their education to maintain their certification. Therefore, they are always up to date with the latest research and techniques in arboriculture. One of the best methods to use in choosing an arborist is to educate yourself on some of the basic principles of tree care. Visit our tree care tips pages for further information about trees and their care.
Mulches are materials placed over the soil surface to maintain moisture and improve soil conditions. Mulching is one of the most beneficial things you can do for your trees. Mulch can reduce water loss from the soil, minimize weed competition, and improve soil structure. Mulch must be applied properly; if it is too deep or if the wrong material is used, it can actually cause significant harm to trees and other landscape plants.
The benefits of proper mulching:
- Helps maintain soil moisture. Evaporation is reduced, and the need for watering can be minimized.
- Helps control weeds. A 2-4 inch layer of mulch will reduce the germination and growth of weeds.
- Mulch serves as an insulating blanket, keeping soils warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.
- Many types of mulch can improve soil aeration and drainage over time.
- Apply mulch several inches from the base of the tree so the trunk and the root crown are exposed.
- Organic, well aerated and preferably composted mulch is usually best due to their soil-enhancing properties. Avoid sour-smelling mulch.
- Composted wood chips make good mulch, especially when they contain a blend of leaves, bark, and wood. Fresh wood chips may also be used around established trees and shrubs.
- For well-drained sites, apply a 2-4 inch layer. Place mulch out to the tree’s drip line or beyond.
Remember not to:
- Pile mulch too deep it can lead to excess moisture in the root zone causing root rot.
- Pile mulch against the trunk or stems of plants it may lead to insect and disease problems.
Help for storm damaged trees.
Here are some suggestions to help your trees recover from storm damage.
- Firstly, do not try to do it all yourself. If large limbs are broken or hanging, or if high or overhead chainsaw work is needed, it is a job for a professional arborist. Storm damaged trees can be dangerous.
- Take safety precautions. Look up and look down. Be on the alert and stay away from downed utility lines and dangerous hanging branches that look like they are ready to fall.
- Assess the damages. Evaluate your trees carefully by asking the following questions:
- Other than the storm damage, is the tree basically healthy and vigorous?
- Are major limbs or the leader (the main upward-trending branch on most trees) branch still remaining?
- Is at least 50 percent of the tree’s crown (branches and leaves) still intact?
- Are there remaining branches that can form a new branch structure?
If you answered “yes” to the majority of these questions, there is a good chance for complete recovery.
Broken branches or stubs that are still attached to the tree should be removed. Removing the jagged remains of broken limbs minimises the risk of decay agents entering the wound. Proper pruning cuts should be used to avoid damaging the tree further.
Topping, the cutting of main branches back to stubs will not help avoid breakage in future storms. Instead “topping” will encourage the growth of many weakly-attached branches that are higher and are more likely to break during a storm. Also, topping will reduce the amount of foliage, on which the tree depends for the food and nourishment needed for re-growth. A topped tree that has already sustained major storm damage is more likely to die than repair itself.
Reduce Your Tree the Healthy Way
When people want to reduce the size of a tree they most commonly think of ‘topping.’ Unfortunately, ‘topping’ (the cutting of main branches back to stubs) is perhaps the most harmful tree pruning practice known.
There are many reasons why people decide to reduce the size of their trees. People often feel that their trees have become too large for their property. They may want to let light and views into their property, to clear utility lines or the trees size may pose a hazard.
Topping, however, is not a viable method of height or size reduction and certainly does not reduce any hazards. In fact, topping will make a tree more hazardous in the long term.
Hazards caused by Topping.
Topping encourages the growth of many weakly-attached branches that are high and likely to break. Topping cuts often create stubs with wounds that the tree may not be able to close, leaving the exposed wood tissues open to decay and insect invasion.
Topping also suddenly exposes the remaining branches and trunk to high levels of light and heat. This can cause sunburn of the tissues beneath the bark, which can lead to cankers, bark splitting, and death of some branches.
The Healthy Way to top a tree
There are recommended arboricultural techniques to reduce the height or spread of a tree. Known as crown reduction, branches can be removed back to their point of origin or cut back to a lateral that is large enough to assume the terminal role. This method of branch reduction helps to preserve the natural form of the tree.
Crown Reduction reduces the trees size and maintains its shape and strength.
Trees form a variety of shapes and growth habits, all with the same goal of presenting their leaves to the sun. Topping weakens the tree, destroys its natural form and increases the need for future pruning. In contrast trees that have been reduced properly will maintain their structural integrity and form and the frequency of future pruning is reduced.
Fruit Tree Spraying
We have had a number of questions about how to care for Fruit Trees. Here is a basic spray regime for them. Prevention is much easier than cure! Hope this helps.
- Spray stone and Pip fruit with copper. This will cure most fungal diseases.
- At bud swell and at bud burst spray with copper or Mavrik. This will cure leaf curl as well as discourage aphid and thrips.
- In mid-spring, when stone fruit trees are in full bloom, spray again with Mavrik or copper to limit brown rot and other insect pests.
- Also in mid-spring spray pip fruit with Fungus Fighter to limit the spread of black spot.
- In late spring / summer if your fruit trees are affected with brown rot or pear slug, spray with Bravo or a similar spray. Also in late spring / summer spray pip fruit trees with Fungus Fighter or Cabaryl. This will control powdery mildew, codling moth and leaf curler.
- At autumn leaf fall spray both stone and pip fruit with copper to help clean up any fungal disease.
Site Selection- Think right soil, right space, right light.
Will your tree need shade or sun? Wet soil or dry? Avoid planting large trees under or near power lines. Also remember that tree roots spread well beyond their branches; so pick a planting spot with plenty of room for underground development.
Digging the hole
Proper planting techniques are critical to the life of a tree. All too often, people make their first and biggest planting mistake when they dig the hole that will be their tree’s home.
Dig the hole too deep and the roots don’t have access to sufficient oxygen to ensure proper growth, too narrow and the root structure can’t expand sufficiently to nourish and properly anchor the tree.
A good rule of thumb is to dig the hole about three times the width of the root ball and no deeper than the height of the root ball.
A properly prepared planting hole will help the tree’s root system establish more quickly. Healthy roots will make healthy trees.
Planting Container Trees
Carefully remove the tree from the container and check the roots. If they are tightly compressed or ‘potbound’, carefully tease the fine roots away from the tight mass and then spread the roots prior to planting. In the case of extremely woody compacted roots, it may be necessary to use a sharp tool to open up the bottom half of the root system. The root system is then pulled apart prior to planting.
Loosening the root structure in this way is extremely important in the case of container plants. Failure to do so may result in the roots ‘girdling’ and killing the tree. At the very least, the roots will have difficulty expanding beyond the dimensions of the original container. To further assist this, lightly break up the soil outside the planting zone.
Once the tree is seated in the hole, the original soil is then back-filled into the hole to the soil level of the container. Remember not to overly compress the back-filled soil especially by tramping it with your feet. Compress gently using your hands instead.
Young trees should be able to support their own weight, but when they are transplanted, they often need time to establish themselves. If you find you have to stake your tree, remember the following:
- Only stake the tree long enough for it to be able stand on its own.
- Stakes should not be too tight – there should be room for the tree to sway in the wind.
- Stakes should not be too loose – the tree should not rub against the stakes.
- Stakes should be buried far enough underground to provide ample support.