While balsamic vinegar has become a widely used product by gourmet chefs and home-cooks alike, many people are still unaware of its rich traditions that date back almost 1000 years. In fact, many vinegar products labelled “balsamic” are actually factory-processed substitutes and vinegar dressings that have little in common with the rich traditions of balsamic vinegars made by artisan farmers in the vineyards of Modena, Italy.
Exactly What Is Balsamic Vinegar?
Grapes from the wine-growing regions of Modena and Reggio Emiliano in Italy – generally the grape varieties of Trebbiano and Lambrusco – are pressed to extract their liquid. After the seeds, grape peels and stalks are removed, the liquid is cooked over direct heat in an open container to achieve a concentrated liquid through evaporation. In most cases, the the resulting concentrate is about 30% of the initial volume. The resulting wine must or “mosto cotto” is then left to cool and rest producing a dark brown viscous syrup with a high sugar content.
The cooled and rested wine must is then placed in a variety of wood barrels (oak, chestnut, mulberry, cherry, juniper, etc.) to age. As the wine vinegar matures and evaporation occurs, the concentrated wine must is then transferred to even smaller barrels to aid in the maturation and fermentation of the wine vinegar. During the aging process, the product goes through a series of profound changes with regards to the alcohols, aldehydes, sugars and organic acids contained in the wine must. This produces a bouquet of delicate yet intense aromas and flavors.
In general, the wine must will age for at least 4 years in the wooden barrels, but may be extracted during the aging process and combined with wine vinegar to produce a variety of balsamic vinegar products as described below.
Classification of Balsamic Vinegars
When buying balsamic vinegar, bear in mind that there are only two officially recognized varieties of vinegar: DOP and IGP. DOP vinegar consists of 100% wine must, while IGP balsamic vinegar contains some wine vinegar, but added under conditions controlled by the Italian Consortium. All other “balsamic vinegars” should be labelled as “condiment” or, in some cases, “saba.” These condiment vinegars are generally used for salad dressings and some glazes. In many cases, artisan producers make superb condiment balsamic vinegars; however, the discerning buyer should know and trust the producer. In short, BUYER BEWARE!
Found below is an extract of an article on the classification of balsamic vinegars recently published by Gourmet Living:
TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR (“DOP”)
Traditional balsamic vinegar designated by the two consortia: Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia and Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena; are aged in barrels for at least 12 years and often longer. The fermenting grape must may not be withdrawn until it has aged in the cask for 12 years. At the end of the designated aging period (12 or 25 years) a small portion is drawn from the smallest cask and each cask is then topped up with the contents of the preceding (next larger) cask. Consortium-sealed and labeled traditional balsamic vinegar 100 ml bottles can cost between US$150 and $400 a bottle.
CONSORTIUM CERTIFIED BALSAMIC VINEGAR (“IGP”)
In order to protect the integrity of the product, vintners in Modena and Reggio Emilia now have the option of bottling Balsamic Vinegar under the supervision of the Consortium (Reg.CEE n. 583/2009). While the grower/bottler will add wine vinegar to the grape must, the bottling and supervision of the aging process in rigorously controlled by the Consortium to determine its quality ratings. While quality standards will vary, the “IGP” certificate on a bottle of balsamic vinegar indicates a far more rigorous level of supervision and control over the final product.
CONDIMENT OR “CONDIMENTO” GRADE BALSAMIC VINEGAR
Condimento or “dressing” balsamic vinegars may be labeled as condimento balsamico, salsa balsamica or salsa di mosto cotto. Condimento balsamic vinegar may be made in any of the following ways:
- IGP status (see above) requires a minimum aging period of two months, not necessarily in wooden barrels, rising to three years when labeled as invecchiato (aged);
- Made by producers of traditional balsamic vinegars but aged less than the minimum 12 years;
- Made by the same method as the traditional vinegars, but made by producers located outside of Modena and Reggio Emilia provinces and not made under consortium supervision;
- Made of ordinary wine vinegar with the addition of grape must (mosto cotto) in varying proportions, without any aging
The choice of a “right” balsamic vinegar is generally a matter of taste. With so many tainted varieties on the market, it is best to seek out a product certified by the consortium (“IGP”) or – if you can afford it – the traditional balsamic vinegar carrying the “DOP” certification.
If you are undecided about about which brand of balsamic vinegar to buy, I would certainly recommend starting with an IGP certified vinegar.
To learn more about the vineyards of Modena and how balsamic vinegar is aged, READ ON by CLICKING HERE!