Hollies (Ilex spp.) are evergreen hedge plants with hundreds of species that are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10, depending on the variety. Plant breeders have also developed many ornamental varieties. Because these unique cultivars do not grow true from seed, they must be grafted onto the rootstock of a seedling holly. A technique known as "T-budding" is commonly used to propagate hollies.
Obtain seedlings for use as a rootstock. Grow them from seed or transplant seedlings that have sprouted around a mature holly.
Collect cuttings from the holly that is to be propagated. Use wood from the current season's growth, taken from the middle of the stem. The length and girth of the wood is not important, since it is only the buds that will be used. Remove all the leaves from the budstick.
Slice upwards with a budding knife from one-half to three-quarters of an inch below a bud to approximately the same distance above it, cutting off a thin sliver of the stem with the bud attached to it. Make the cut as straight as possible, as curved pieces of budwood are not likely to graft successfully.
Make a vertical cut, about 1 1/2 inches long, through the bark of the seedling 3 or 4 inches above the soil line, in an area of smooth bark where there are no other buds or branch stems. Make a horizontal cut at the top of the vertical line about one-half to three-quarters of an inch long so the two cuts form a T shape. Cut only through the outer bark, not into the wood of the seedling.
Use the tip of the knife to detach the bark from the stem along the length of vertical cut. Work carefully to avoid ripping the bark. Slide the bud down behind the flaps of bark until the top of the bud is below the top of the T-shaped cut. Make sure the bud is angled upwards, as upside-down buds cannot be grafted.
Wrap the area with a budding rubber or grafting tape to hold it tightly to the stem of the seedling, leaving only the bud itself exposed. The wood will grow together wherever the inner bark layer or cambium of the two pieces is touching, so it is important that the union be held together firmly. It should be evident within 2 weeks if the graft is successful, because the bud will still appear plump and green. If the bud shrivels up and turns black, remove it and attempt the graft again on another part of the seedling.
After the grafted bud begins to grow, cut off the stem of the seedling just above the graft union to prevent the seedling from putting out any new growth as the grafted wood begins to grow. Remove any shoots that appear from below the graft.
Allow the grafted holly to grow for at least one season in a pot before planting it in a permanent location.
Things You Will Need
- 1-gallon pots
- Potting soil
- Hand pruners
- Budding knife
- Grafting tape or budding rubbers
- Late summer is the best time to graft hollies.
- Seedlings can be produced by harvesting the berries in fall, removing the seeds from the flesh of the fruit and planting them in 1-gallon pots that are left outdoors for the winter. Some may germinate the following spring, but others can take two to three years to sprout. Hollies purchased from nurseries can also be used as rootstock for grafting a particular variety.
- If the budsticks cannot be used immediately for grafting, they can be preserved for up to two months by wrapping them in wet paper towels and placing them in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator.
- Budding knives are extremely sharp, so exercise caution, especially when slicing off the buds.
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