Destination Maceió, second travel to the capital of the state of Alagoas.
Visiting the historical town of Marechal Deodoro. Former capital of the state of Alagoas, named after the first President of Brazil.
The historical city of Marechal Deodoro is located at about thirty km from Maceió, and may be reached by a regular bus service. The bus follows the highway southward, until a rotunda, with the road to Praia do Francês when turning left, and the road to Marechal Deodoro when turning right. The city was first described in 1522, when an expedition, commanded by Cristovão Jackes, arrrived there. At that time, the region was populated by Caeté indian tribes. In 1535, another expedition, commanded by Duarte Coelho, arrived. However, it lasted until 1591 when the first payments were registered. In 1611, the location was named Vila da Madalena (Sumaúma). The name was eventually changed into Santa Maria Madalena da Lagoa do Sul, where an adminsitrative unit was established in 1706. Eventually, the name was changed into Alagoas and became the capital of the province of Alagoas. In 1663, the settlement was attacked by the Dutch. A large part of the local population was tortured and about a hundred houses were burnt down. These Dutch invaders must have stayed there for some more years after the end of the Dutch dominance in Northeast Brazil in 1654. In 1823, Alagoas was elevated to the status of a city, but lost the title of capital to the city of Maceió. A century later, the city was renamed into Marechal Deodoro, named after the first Brazilian president who was born there: Marechal Deodoro da Fonseca.
Since 2006, Marechal Deodoro is Brazilian Cultural Heritage, since the first Brazilian president was born there. At present, the city counts about 45 thousand inhabitants, and a large part of the population works or studies in Maceió. The living standard in Marechal Deodoro is relatively low, a small part of the local income is derived from tourism and artesanato (handicraft). Tourism in Marechal Deodoro hasn’t developed much yet; there are few services for those who are interested in the history and culture of the city. The Tourism Board is relatively small and hasn’t much to offer to tourists. Highlights of Marechal Deodoro are the historical churches and the birth house of Marechal Deodoro da Fonseca. The hungry tourist is forced to return to Maceió, or has to go to neighboring Praia do Francês, when he wants to have a warm meal. Therefore, it is recommended to combine the visit of Marechal Deodoro with a visit of Praia do Francês.
In Marechal Deodoro. churches are the highlights of the historical architecture.
The picture above shows two churches, both being restored (in 2009), and therefore not open for visitors. The church on the left is Igreja de Santa Maria Madalena. In 1684, the construction was started, and completed more than a century later, in 1793. The church was built in the Baroque style, and had served as military headquarters for a long time. The church on the right is Igreja and Convento de São Francisco. However, many websites about Marechal Deodoro, mistakenly name it Igreja da Nossa Senhora do Rosário. The website of the city mentions that construction of this church was started in 1635, and – after some interruptions – completed in 1735. The year 1635 also marked the start of the first housings for refugees from Pernambuco, at the time of the Dutch dominance.
The picture below shows Igreja Matriz da Nossa Senhora da Conceição. It is not known when the construction of this church in Baroque style was started, but documents mention the church already in 1654. The church was burnt down during the attacks by the Dutch; restoration of the church was completed in 1783. Eventual reforms added Rococo elements to the church. Marechal Deodoro da Fonseca was baptized in this church.
Marechal Deodoro is a quiet city with only a few interesting locations. These locations were visited by me in a relatively short time. Nevertheless, the tourists may obtain a good impression of daily life in the small Alagoan city. Small scale, small schools, small supermarkets, which remind us of of local groceries. Small stores, generally with only the owner (and his family) running it. No towering buildings or apartment blocks, but small houses with a small garden in front. No high gates or fences, no heavily guarded fences, but only simple gates. People appear to live on the streets. You will notice small groups of people chatting with each other, everyone seems to know each other, when you observe them greeting each other heartily. Marechal Deodoro is a small community, although pretty close to the metropolis of Maceiò, a city of huge contrasts.
Ring only once….
The city limits of Marechal Deodoro (blue line)
By Adriano Antoine Robbesom