A Tradition of Viticulture
A Tradition of ViticultureCypriots know a thing or two about wine – they’ve been in the business since antiquity and boast some of the oldest grape varieties in the world. Recent archaeological excavations revealed that wine was being produced on the island – and probably exported elsewhere in the Mediterranean – as long ago as 3,000BC.
The wine industry has seen much development over the last few decades, with vineyards upgrading and hiring talent to perfect their products to meet consumer demand and better compete in this tough sector. After some difficult years, when the small scale of its production base made it difficult to penetrate big overseas markets, the Cypriot wine industry has now successfully repositioned itself in response to international market trends.
winesToday more than 40 small, regional wineries situated in the hillside villages of the grape-growing regions, produce a variety of characterful wines, many of which are blended with established foreign varieties of grape. The island’s four big wineries – ETKO, KEO, SODAP and LOEL – have also adapted, replanting their vineyards with new international varieties and rediscovering old indigenous ones. Cyprus is now increasingly recognised as an exporter of smaller quantities of a high-quality product for the discerning consumer.Today more than 40 small, regional wineries situated in the hillside villages of the grape-growing regions, produce a variety of characterful wines, many of which are blended with established foreign varieties of grape. The island’s four big wineries – ETKO, KEO, SODAP and LOEL – have also adapted, replanting their vineyards with new international varieties and rediscovering old indigenous ones. Cyprus is now increasingly recognised as an exporter of smaller quantities of a high-quality product for the discerning consumer.
The Cypriot Vineyard: Grape & Varieties
The vineyards of Cyprus are among the very few vineyards of the world not affected by the vine louse, known as phylloxera, a disease that fell upon the greatest part of Europe's vineyards at the beginning of the 20th century. Having escaped phylloxera, the Cyprus wines are self-sown plants of the European Vitis Vinifera retaining their classic organoleptic characteristics as well as the potential of a long life.
Cyprus displays several native grape varieties, which account for the vast majority of the production, and provide truly unique wines with distinct tastes and aroma profiles. There are approximately 15 indigenous varieties of which the most largely cultivated are the grapes of Xynisteri, Mavro, Ofthalmo and Maratheftiko or Vamvakada. These grapes, that can be truly new and breathtaking alternatives to the varietals that have dominated the market.Cyprus displays several native grape varieties, which account for the vast majority of the production, and provide truly unique wines with distinct tastes and aroma profiles. There are approximately 15 indigenous varieties of which the most largely cultivated are the grapes of Xynisteri, Mavro, Ofthalmo and Maratheftiko or Vamvakada. These grapes, that can be truly new and breathtaking alternatives to the varietals that have dominated the market.
Is the prevailing white grape variety of Cyprus with 2,200 hectares planted. It produces excellent light-colored white wine with low alcohol levels (11-11.5% vol.) and low to medium acidity. It is mainly found in the regions of the Akamas Laona, Ambelitis, Vouni Panayias and Pitsilia. Xynisteri wines are not suitable for ageing and must be drunk when young one year at most after production. This is the only other grape, with mavro, that is used for making Commandaria.
A red local variety that is cultivated in small quantities (about 170 hectares) scattered all over the Cypriot vineyard but predominantly in certain areas of the Pitsilia region, such as Agros and Ayios Theodoros, in the Paphos region and in the Wine Villages of Lemessos. This grape can produce wines of light color, distinctive intense aroma and very low acidity which are not ideal for ageing. The regions of Pitsilia and the Wine Villages of Lemessos yield the best quality results.
Is a red varietal and dominates the Cypriot vineyard covering 5,700 hectares. It is very productive and characterized by large juicy grapes that make it a superb table variety. Its grapes produce balanced, slightly astringent wines with a weak color and aroma which are not amenable to long-term ageing. The best results come from grapes grown in the mountainous regions of Pitsilia, Laona (Lemesos region), and Afames.The poor barren soils in these areas make for lower productivity but higher concentration, in contrast to lower altitudes and more fertile soils. Until recently, Mavro accounted for over 80% of Cyprus' vineyards. However this percentage has been decreasing year by year as new varieties are imported.
Is a very rare red variety scattered around Cyprus’ vineyards (120 hectares) but most densely concentrated through the mountain regions of Paphos and in Pitsilia, where the variety is known as Vambakada. It can produce rosès and light reds to red wines suitable for ageing. When ripen adequately, it gives high quality wines of intense color and full body with distinctive fruity aromas of cherries and blackberries. Recently, there is a trend to age wines produced from this grape in oak casks. Maratheftiko has a serious propensity to bud loss which limits its productivity and expansion as its is one of the world's few non-hermaphroditic. Its buds are females and have to be planted in mixed vineyards to ensure pollination.
Although most of the wine-grapes grown on the island are indigenous varietals, there has been a large variety of grapes imported to the island (approximately 60). Chardonnay, Riesling, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc constitute the international team of white wines grown in Cyprus which are produced in small quantities and have a characteristic that is essentially Cyprus. Some of the highlights of the red wines imported to Cyprus include Cabernet Franc (France), Cabernet Sauvignon (France), Syrah (Australia), Grenache Noir (France) and Mourvèdre or Mataro (Spain).
Commandaria is perhaps this is the oldest wine in the world. In fact, no one know how old this Commandaria sweet red wine is. Its fame and tradition goes as far back as the history of the island and it was described as one of the three major sources of wealth: Wine – Copper – Timber.
There is evidence that during the thousand years or more of worshipping Aphrodite with the annual festival and pilgrimages, this very sweet Cyprus wine was one of the special offerings.
Commandaria was described by many writers as Sweet Cypriot Nama – Hesiod, the ancient Greek poet, describes in his Works and Days how this special sweet wine is made “when Orion and Sirius come into mid-heaven, and rosy-fingered Dawn sees Arcturus, cut off the grape-clusters and bring them home. Show them to the sun ten days and ten nights, then cover them over the fire and on the sixth day, draw off into vessels the gifts of joyful Dionysus…”
Its present name dates back to the Middle Ages and the period of the Crusades. Cyprus, being close to the Holy Land, soon attracted the Crusaders and it was Richard Coeur de Lion who landed on the island in 1191, and then sold it to the Order of the Knights Templar. They divided Cyprus into Commanderies and near Limassol, at Kolossi where a famous castle was built, they made their headquarters. Thus the name Commandaria was transferred to the wine produced in the area. They and their successors, the Knights of the Order of St. John, produced this delightful wine in large quantities and exported it to many European and English courts where it became very popular.
In a wine competition organised by the King of France Philippe Augustus, Commandaria was crowned “The King of wines, and the wine of Kings”.
Strict cultivation and production controls ensure continuity of quality and taste. The grapes come from the denominated area of Commandaria, on the eastern slops of Troodos mountain range, making it an “Appellation of origin” wine. Mavro and Xynisteri grow in volcanic soils, poor and thin, thus producing a low yield but of high quality. The overripe grapes are hand picked and then left to dry in the sun, on rooftops, until the water evaporates and the sugar is concentrated in the berries. The grapes are then pressed and the resultant syrup like juice is left to ferment naturally. Over generations of making this wine, the natural yeasts of the region have adapted to the specific nature of the juice, thus the fermentation ceases at precisely the right balance of alcohol and residual grape sugar. The wine is pumped to old oak barrels and left to mature for as long as possible.
To view the main and regional wineries, look at the list provided by the Ministry of energy, Commerce and Industry.