The annual Inti Raymi (“Festival of the Sun”) is held on June 24th each year, a few days after the Winter Solstice in the Southern Hemisphere. This event has been celebrated since the height of the Incan Empire, and was considered the most important of four ceremonies celebrated in Cusco. This Solstice represented the beginning of a new cycle and the return of the source of life, Intitaytanchi, Father Sun, to the Andes.
From near and far, indigenous peoples from all over the Andes region (along with many tourists) gather to celebrate this event. The central courtyard of the Plaza de Armas in Cusco is transformed by a multitude of local Indians camping out along the promenade. The colorful local costumes, the smell of small cooking fires, and the music all lend a carnival atmosphere…and this goes on for a week. It’s the party of the year, and no one is too humble to not attend. The local brew, chi-cha, flows freely, as it has at this event for centuries until today.
There are street fairs, daytime expositions, colorful crowds and dancing in the street. Free concerts entertain crowds at the Plaza de Armas. Yet, the real event for many is held in the nearby ruins of Sacsayhuaman in the hills above Cuzco.
Imagine an ancient fortress of long, towering walls stretching across a field. Close up, their construction reveals some of the most mind-boggling stonework in Peru. These strangely cut and fitted stones range from small to those weighing thousands of pounds, so closely set that one cannot fit a credit card between them. This method of construction renders such structures earthquake-proof, and is accomplished with no binding or mortar.
Against this backdrop unveils a dramatic panorama. For the year leading up to this ceremony, hundreds of actors are selected to represent ancient Incan historical figures, Incan priests, priestesses and Incan princesses. Costumes have to be assembled, music and dance rehearsed, those chosen honored to do their part in continuing this tradition…hoping that if all goes as prayed for, the Sun will come back and crops will again flourish.
On the actual day of Inti Raymi, the ceremony begins on the site of the ancient Coriaconcha, the holy of holies of what was theTemple of the Sun (now built over by the Santo Domingo Church). An invocation to the Sun is given by the Sapa Inca in the square, as he calls for a blessing from the Sun. Following this, he is carried on a golden throne in a procession to the fortress of Sacsayhuaman. Following him come the high priests in ceremonial robes, then officials of the court, and others resplendent in elaborate costumes with gold and silver ornaments.
The drama continues with speeches by priests representing the Suyos, the three levels of existence: Snake for the world below, Puma for the life on earth, and Condor for the upper world of the gods. A sacred Coca leaf reading is consulted to divine the future of the empire, and a ceremonial fire is rekindled. In a very realistic moment, the high priest (apparently) sacrifices a white llama, holding up its heart in honor of Pachamama. This ensures the fertility of the earth when combined with the light and warmth of the sun… to ensure a bountiful crop for the next cycle.
Each year, more than 150,000 colorfully dressed natives take place in these events. The booming drums, eerie panpipes and blaring horns, all pre-Hispanic instruments, send a chill up your spine as you look in wonder, feeling like you have just stepped out of a time machine. This is a day to recapture the spirit and values of their ancestors, a celebration of cultural pride. Consider yourself fortunate indeed if you have the chance to witness this incredible event yourself.