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CAMBODIA, JANUARY 13 2001: In the jungled retreat of Kobal Spien, former Khmer Rouge guerrillas act as tourist guides to point out intricate Hindu and Buddhist carvings such as the River of 1,000 Lingas; the riverbed is dotted with sculpted stone carvings, including Siva Lingas, stone frogs, Buddhas and the many-headed Naga snake, all of which are believed to strengthen and purify the water. Until two years ago the area was an impregnable Khmer stronghold. Now, slowly, after three decades of bitter warfare, the treasures and history of the area are finally being revealed. The now-defeated Khmer Rouge did not destroy the temples. They were often used as military bases or field hospitals. But peace could be disastrous for what remains, because of the smuggling of artifacts and the depredations of tourism.