Lynelle Scott-Aitken searches for bread ingredients that pack a punch.
Without strong flour there would be no bread as we commonly know it.
In her classic English Bread and Yeast Cookery (Penguin, 1977), Elizabeth David describes strong wheat flours. She says they are capable of absorbing water and expanding dramatically to produce bread with greater volume and superior structure to that of soft wheat flours. All-purpose household flour is generally soft flour best suited to cakes, pastries and biscuits, which require a tender, crumbly texture.
When it comes to flour, there is no greater determinant of quality, market value and possible uses than its "strength". Strength refers to the percentage of protein, collectively called gluten, which wheat and flour contain. Wheat variety and growing conditions influence gluten levels - so-called strong or hard wheats can yield flour with a gluten content of 12 per cent or higher. Soft wheat flours contain 8 to 10 per cent gluten.
Gluten is a fascinating substance similar to chewing gum in that it stretches and doesn't dissolve. Chew a piece of raw dough for a few minutes and this insoluble component will remain. You can rinse a cup of flour under running water through a sieve to isolate the grey gum.
Unfortunately for sufferers of coeliac disease, gluten is an indigestible toxin that damages the gut and prevents the proper absorption of nutrients in food. For the rest of us, its remarkable properties spell the difference between generally coarse bread and well-risen, crusty loaves.
Kneading a dough made with strong flour develops the elasticity of the gluten. As the carbon dioxide given off by yeast in the dough expands, the gluten strands stretch without allowing any bubbles of gas to escape. When the dough is sufficiently risen, baking in a hot oven stops the activity of the yeast and traps the air inside.
Gluten occurs naturally in Australian-grown wheat at rates of between 6.5 and 17.5 per cent. The lowest end is used as feed wheat.
As the percentage and therefore strength increases, the flour becomes general purpose, fair average quality, prime hard one and, at the top of the range, prime hard two.
To influence the gluten content of flour, blend different flour strengths or add powdered gluten. Dry weather can concentrate the gluten content of wheat berries and increase their strength and quality in the same way it can concentrate the fruit sugars in grapes and improve the wine they become.
With the proliferation of domestic bread makers, it is fairly easy to find strong (also known as baker's, bread, pizza or special) flour; mixes that require a measure of water and yeast; or packets of gluten that can strengthen supermarket-bought all-purpose flour.
In addition to making superior sweet and savoury breads and other doughs, strong flour also makes excellent homemade pasta.
Nutra Health Foods
The easiest way to get strong flour is to make it yourself.
So pick up a 500g pack of Universe Gluten Flour, which is 100 per cent gluten, from Nutra Health, or head over the road to one of the supermarkets. When you get home, mix together 60g of gluten powder to every kilogram of plain or wholemeal all-purpose flour, or 1 teaspoon of gluten powder per cup of flour for smaller quantities. Sift them together so the gluten powder is well distributed throughout the flour. Either use immediately or store in an airtight container.
15A The Plaza, Lane Cove, 9427 4420.
Summer Hill Organic Fruit Market
The range of organic and biodynamic flours stocked by Helen and Jim Papadopoulos is staggering. Brands include Lotus, Soland and Green Grove, from Junee. The shop has plain strong flour, organic bread mixes with a high gluten content, unbleached and wholemeal flours - which retain more nutrients than plain bleached flour - and flours from grains such as rye and spelt. Jim reckons strong flour makes the best spanakopita, or spinach and fetta pie.
162 Old Canterbury Road (corner Carrington Street), Summer Hill, 9799 3258.
If you're after strong flour, the easiest option is a ready-made bread mix. Franklins stock the Defiance range, which includes White Sourdough, White Bread, Hi-Fibre Grain and Wholemeal Bread. All contain wheat flour boosted with extra gluten and kneading instructions. You can use the mixes without a breadmaker, or use the plain white or wholemeal versions - just don't add yeast or water - to make pasta dough (see recipe, below).
Inquiries, 8577 4300.
Just scraping into the strong flour range at 10.8 per cent is the Universal Flour stocked by this family business. Manager Stacy Anton settled on Universal because it's good for his deli clients who want to make bread rolls and pies, as well as those who have pizza in mind. It comes from the Ben Furney Flour Mills at Dubbo in 10 or 25 kilogram bags. The company strengthens its flours by blending different grades rather than adding gluten. Anton will also order in stronger Ben Furney flours on request, such as the 12.5 per cent gluten Premium Gold (for pasta and bread) and the serious bread-baking flour, Maxi Pro, at about 14 per cent.
105A Illawarra Road, Marrickville, 9560 8441.
Try, if you can, getting past the luscious rows of dried fruits and nuts in this beloved continental supermarket and head to the dry-goods shelves at the back; aisle two, second bottom shelf. There you'll find packets of Special White Flour, which is strong flour from Weston Milling in Victoria. For the customers who buy it regularly, it's known as "Melbourne Flour". It is packaged in one and 10 kilogram bags, and 25 kilogram bags can be ordered in. There is also a Special White Self-Raising Flour for Greek cooks who prefer it, even for cakes.
455 Gardeners Road, Mascot, 9669 6136.
For each person, allow 100g strong plain or wholemeal flour, a pinch of salt, 1 medium egg and 1 tsp olive oil. Put the flour and salt into a bowl and add the egg(s) and oil together. Stir the flour into the egg(s) with your fingers, gradually incorporating it. The dough should be so dry that it just forms. Knead gently for 2 minutes until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and rest at room temperature for an hour. Roll through a pasta machine, or by hand, until paper thin. Cut into desired shape and cook in boiling salted water for 2 minutes or until just tender. Drain and serve with any sauce.