Keratin shampoo is a hair care product designed to strengthen hair as it cleans. Manufacturers say that it tames frizz and makes hair less prone to breakage. Those in the hair care industry are divided about whether it is truly effective, acknowledging that, if it does work, results might take time. It is supposed to work for most hair types but is promoted heavily for those with curly or frizzy locks. Depending on the exact formulation, this type of hair cleaner might pose some health risks.
Keratin is a protein that occurs naturally in the body, not only in hair, but also in skin and nails. Made by cells called keratinocytes, it is made up of amino acids. The exact level of these amino acids is what makes the substance hard, as in an animal hoof, or soft and pliable, as in hair.
When keratinocytes form daughter cells, those cells quickly push the parent cells up and out of the way. The parent cells eventually die as a result. This process, called keratinization, is what creates the hair people see. To get a little more specific, the protein forms three major layers: the outer cuticle, the middle cortex and the inner medulla. The outer cuticle is made up of overlapping scales that, if damaged or lifted up too high, leave the cortex susceptible to loss of strength and shape.
Keratin is extremely strong. If hair is brittle, it is often because damage from environmental factors, friction or chemical agents has broken down or removed some of it. The amount in a hair strand decreases naturally over time, so some manufacturers say that putting some back with a shampoo is a good idea.
Keratin shampoo is a hair cleaning product that has a common protein added to it. Manufacturers assert that it will make the cortex stronger. They also say it will coat the cuticle, adding protection to the cortex. The result is sleeker hair that is less prone to frizzing and breaking.
Experts in the hair care industry are divided about whether these shampoos are as effective as manufacturers claim they are. Some stylists say that if a person already has had another protein treatment, the shampoos can keep the effects from fading quite so fast. They assert that, beyond this, the shampoos might not help very much. Others claim that the keratin takes time to build up on the hair and that the reason people sometimes dismiss the shampoos is that they don’t get the immediate results they want.
To bond with a person’s natural hair well, the keratin has to have the same form and sequence of the hair. People who buy the shampoos therefore have to pay attention to the source of the protein. Wool is a common source that is said to be similar to human hair.
The amount of damage a person’s hair already has also effects how well the products work. Results depend on the other ingredients within the shampoo, as well. Some of those ingredients, such as sulfates, potentially can cause further damage to the hair or affect how well the keratin bonds with the hair strands.
Most types of hair can be improved by using keratin shampoo, but it can particularly help frizzy, curly or dry hair. The added protein helps prevent moisture from being lost from the inner part of the hair strand. It also keeps too much moisture from getting in. With better moisture regulation, the hair frizzes less and is less brittle. People with curly hair are especially prone to dryness and frizz because they have hair in which the overlapping sections of cuticle are very open, making it easy for water to move in and out.
People who have very fine, straight hair often struggle with breaking strands, because their hair shafts do not have enough circumference or diameter to resist snapping. These individuals sometimes find that these types of shampoos can build up the strength of the hair so it doesn’t break as much. The problem is that fine hair is very easily weighed down. The more protein a person adds to their hair, the heavier it is. This can make it appear flat and lifeless.
Some treatments, including certain brands of shampoos, contain substances such as methylene glycol and formalin. When exposed to heat, such as that from hot water or a hair dryer, these become formaldehyde gas. This substance is a known carcinogen, meaning that it has been linked to cases of cancer. Manufacturers include these ingredients because the formaldehyde helps the protein bond more permanently to the hair shaft, but they pose a significant health risk. For this reason, people who want to use these products need to be proactive about reading labels and avoiding ones that contain or indirectly produce formaldehyde.
Allergic reactions can occur while using these shampoos. Some of these reactions include severe itching or a rash the covers the scalp. If a person has not used these products before, it is best to apply a very small amount to the skin in one area first to determine if a reaction will happen.
Hair loss is sometimes reported when using these hair cleaners. They can build up to the point where the hair is less flexible than normal. The strands break as a result. This problem is temporary, as the hair follicles are still healthy.